High and Mighty
Splendid foliage, diverse wildlife and bluegrass harmonies make the Great Smoky Mountains a major attraction this time of year.
With its rolling hills, meandering streams and scenic waterfalls, the Great Smoky Mountains National Park is beautiful any time of year. But nature saves her most jaw-dropping display for fall. That’s when vibrant yellow and firecracker red leaves meld with peach sunsets, sending visitors scrambling for their cameras.
Straddling the boarder between North Carolina and Tennessee, the Great Smoky Mountains National Park is by far the most popular park in America, offering visitors a wide array of both flora and fauna. It still boasts patches of old growth forest and has more than 1,500 species of plants and 125 species of native trees, 68 percent more than all of Europe. The rich plant life supports rich animal life as well. Black bear, bobcat, elk, river otters, wild turkeys and 200 species of birds are among the creatures who make their home here, in parkland deemed “globally outstanding” by the World Wildlife Fund.
The Cherokees who once lived in the area believed that the world’s creation happened in autumn. Amid all this splendor, it’s hard to argue. To find a more colorful and biologically diverse temperate forest than the Appalachians, you’d have to travel to central China. But the Great Smoky Mountains National Park is an easy seven-hour drive from central Ohio.
Cades Cove
The natural abundance of the Great Smokies is partly due to its many lush valleys, which the locals call coves. The most famous is Cades Cove, a mountain-rimmed grassland that has attracted human inhabitants for more than 8,000 years.
In an effort to restore the area’s natural beauty, thousands of residents were removed when the park was established in 1940, in a contentious process that took 40 years to complete. But Cades Cove is still studded with relics of pioneer farms, barns and log homes, which are easily accessed using the 11-mile loop road. Visitors frequently pull over to enjoy the spectacular pastoral views and explore old churches and homes. But the most frequent traffic tie ups are caused by wildlife sightings.
“We had a bear jam yesterday,” said Park Ranger Rebecca Vial. “That’s when people stop to ogle the bears and create congestion.” I didn’t see any bears on our loop through the Cove, but we when stopped to watch two deer nibble on moss, we were quickly joined by a dozen other spectators.
For environmental reasons, there are no plans to expand the narrow twisting loop road. Those planning to drive it should try to avoid evenings and weekends, when traffic is at its peak. Another option is to see the cove on horseback or by hayride, both of which offer an opportunity to soak up more detail. But there is yet a better way to see the cove. It, like all of the Great Smoky Mountains National Park, saves its greatest treasures for those who travel on foot.
Take a Hike
Surprises and wonders await the hiker. When we set out I didn’t expect to come face-to-face with a rattlesnake. But I did. I also saw a gorgeous waterfall and had a peek at a salamander. My guide, Liz Domingue, a naturalist and wildlife biologist who leads guided interpretive hikes through the park, ensures every hike is educational and involves all the senses.
“Here, chew on this,” said Liz, handing out leaves of mountain mint and sourwood. The sourwood has very tart leaves but is prized for its sweet sap.
When we passed a burbling brook Liz said that the Smokies are the salamander capital of the world, with more species than anywhere else.
“These guys are the oldest of all land vertebrates,” she said, fishing one out for me to see. Tiny, slippery and somewhat crabby, the little fellow didn’t seem proud of his ancient heritage. When I noted the rhododendron around us Liz said that the locals call it “mountain laurel” and that it grows abundantly throughout the Smokies. The periodic drumming that filled the air was courtesy of woodpeckers, marking their territory on the loudest surfaces they can find.
Although rattlesnakes are common in the mountains, Liz says it is rare for hikers to see them. I felt lucky to spot a little one alongside the trail. He kept up his rattling for several minutes as if to scold us for waking him from his nap.
Later I visited a vast horseshoe-shaped cave, called Tuckaleechee Caverns, where I spotted another salamander and a lone pygmy bat that was sleeping too deeply to be bothered. My guide Paul Collins let me touch some of the 30 million year-old stalactites and stalagmites, which are showcased in a myriad of shapes and sizes throughout the cavern. Because the cave has been flooded in the past, iron oxide has settled on the rock formations, stunting any future growth.
A Place to Stay
While many bustling towns surround the park both in both Tennessee and North Carolina, I opted to stay in the Townsend, Tennessee area, which calls itself “the peaceful side of the Smokies.” The former logging community founded at the turn of the 1900s is still a tiny village with only 550 residents. Townsend is easily reached off I-75 and offers a wide range of accommodation and dining options. It is not far from the attractions of Gatlinburg and Pigeon Forge, but has none of their traffic, noise and congestion.
I stayed at two places very different from one another. A golden mutt named Pal raced alongside the pickup truck that drove us to my suite at Pioneer Cabins, run by Reed and April Jopling. Seven private log cabins are spread over 45 rolling acres, complete with a fishing pond and a petting farm. The cabins also have full kitchens and fireplaces. After long hikes it felt like heaven to soak in the Jacuzzi while gazing up at the stars.
Just down the road from Townsend in Walland, Tennessee is Blackberry Farm, named the #1 small hotel in America by Zagat Survey and recently picked as the favorite country inn by readers of Southern Living magazine. The accolades are well-deserved. With a guest-to-staff ratio of one-to-one, Blackberry Farm redefines southern hospitality. Its 44 rooms and suites are sumptuous and the cuisine is excellent. The guestbook in my room indicated that Blackberry Farm is an especially popular choice for couples celebrating anniversaries.
“We strive to create a very relaxed atmosphere,” said Renie Carroll, director of sales and marketing. “Guests can go fly fishing, visit our Farmhouse Spa, and our cooking school is a big draw too.” My cottage was filled with tasty snacks and was so comfortable that it was sometimes hard to drag myself out of it.
I cannot wait to return. On the misty ridges of what are among the world’s oldest mountains, I realized that visitors to this magical area are sure to find many friends in high places.
Barbara Wayman is the author of Living An Extraordinary Life: 9 Transformational Strategies for Living Your Best Life Now.