How to Enjoy Caviar
For many, the salty spheres are the best fish story.
“Champagne wishes and caviar dreams.”
For years TV host Robin Leach would sign off episodes of ‘Lifestyles of the Rich and Famous’ with this singular catchphrase. The show is now a relic of opulence, but if you were to ask what food is most associated with celebration, joie de vivre and a decadent repast, caviar would still top the list. There’s just something about the delicacy that has captivated diners for centuries.
Legend has it that it was the Persians who first discovered sturgeon roe. They called it “khav-yar” which means “cake of strength,” as they attributed medicinal powers to the fragile fish eggs. The Chinese were the first to begin began salting them, but it was the Russians who elevated caviar into the indulgent culinary ritual that we know today.
For insight into how one can best enjoy caviar, I went to a true authority. Kamal Boulos is the owner of The Refectory in Columbus, Ohio. The restaurant, serving French cuisine, has won the prestigious AAA Four Diamond award every year for the past 28 years. If anyone knows how to enjoy caviar, it’s him.
The Refectory has had caviar on its menu for ages. “It’s one of those things that really celebrate life in a unique way,” said Boulos. “It’s a memorable way to signify something special and a nice experience to add to the other things that you’re doing,” he said.
Boulos said guests usually enjoy champagne or vodka with their caviar selection. The restaurant offers two types of caviar: Petrossian Royal Ossetra and Petrossian Royal Beluga Hybrid.
What’s the difference? “The Ossetra is a little firm. It will have pearls of an amber to brown spectrum and it has kind of a nutty flavor with more butteriness in the finish. The Beluga would be a smoother texture and a cleaner finish. It’s more pronounced with a creaminess and firmness to it,” Boulos said.
Naturally with such a sumptuous pleasure, presentation is key. For those who order caviar, The Refectory goes over the top. “We always serve it on crushed ice because we want it to stay super cold. And it’s always served with a utensil that’s not made of silver so as not to affect the taste in any way. Usually we use a bone or alabaster flat spoon because you want to be able to press it up against the roof of the mouth to release a burst of flavor,” said Boulos.
As far as accompaniments, The Refectory pairs the delicacy with everything a guest could desire - chopped egg whites, chopped egg yolks, creme fraiche, chopped shallots and of course warm potato blinis.
“Some people use some of that, some use very little or all of it, it just depends on their taste so we give them everything they might want to experience,” said Boulos. “I think that’s a good approach for people who aren’t familiar with caviar because it gives them a variety of different tastes to enjoy. Not everybody enjoys the full salty flavor of the sea. Some like to tone that down. But caviar purists would probably have it with blinis and nothing else.”
I was curious how often caviar is ordered. Boulos said, “There are people who come in regularly and just enjoy the caviar. There are people that just really like it a lot. Every now and then a couple will come in and they’ll want two or three orders to enjoy. It typically comes in a 30 gram tin and that is usually enough for two or three people, but there are some that like it in quantity,” he said.
For those who have never tried caviar, Boulos is encouraging. “If you’re intimidated I would say you should just experience it, even if you never try it again. In the 90s there was a group of high school kids and they would come in and try different things on the menu. Maybe not a whole dinner, perhaps two appetizers just to try it because they were curious about food,” Boulos said.
Food is meant to be enjoyed and life is meant to be celebrated. Even a lifelong restaurateur can make new discoveries. “I recently got introduced to the idea of having caviar with potato chips and I have to tell you, I was sold,” shared Boulos. “I was invited to an event where they served it that way and the saltiness and crispness together was really enjoyable.”
But what about the price tag? Boulos keeps it in perspective. “The thing to bear in mind is, if you think of a super expensive bottle of wine or champagne that may be several hundred dollars, you may not be able to do that regularly and not feel the economic pinch of it. But every now and again you can enjoy something like that and dine in a way that’s above the ordinary for a special occasion,” he said. “With caviar, it’s definitely a bit of luxury but it’s not luxury you can’t reach.”
Barbara Wayman is the author of Living An Extraordinary Life: 9 Transformational Strategies for Living Your Best Life Now.