“When you are happy, you can forgive a great deal.” -Diana, Princess of Wales
All eyes are on London next month, for the highly anticipated coronation of King Charles. Amid the revelry, thoughts will invariably turn to one whose legacy ensures she will be there in spirit — Diana, Princess of Wales.
Beautiful, intuitive, demanding, complex, Diana, Princess of Wales was all this and much more. A lightning rod for controversy, the “Queen of People’s Hearts” seemed to split public opinion into two camps – those who admired her for her compassion, humanitarian work and glamour and those who didn’t see what all the fuss was about.
Although she has been gone for over 25 years, interest in the princess continues. A Google search of her name draws 168 million citations. Scores of books about her have been published, and documentaries and films continue to be made about her life. Whatever it was about Diana that made her one of the most famous people of the 20th century, the magic dust still lingers, perhaps nowhere more than in London.
Visitors to the British capital can still dine at some of her favorite restaurants and shop at many of her most frequented stores. In addition, statues, parks and museum exhibits have been established in memory of a woman who received the world’s adulation yet remained enormously insecure.
Pomp and Circumstance
Great first stops for any Dianaphile in London are Kensington Palace and St. Paul’s Cathedral. Kensington Palace was Diana’s London residence, and St. Paul’s was the setting for her July 29, 1981 wedding to Prince Charles, watched by 750 million TV viewers around the world. Both are stunning architecturally and fascinating to walk through.
Approaching the wrought-iron gates of Kensington Palace, it’s hard to believe the building started out as a modest suburban mansion. To be fit for its first royal occupants, the house was enlarged significantly. Princess Victoria of Kent was living here in 1837 when she got the news that she had become Queen Victoria, just one of a host of royals who have called Kensington Palace home over the past three centuries.
While Diana’s former apartment has been turned into office space for Prince William and Princess Kate, visitors can tour the royal gardens and enjoy tours, such as Crown to Couture, a major exhibit that mixes contemporary couture gowns worn by celebrities next to historic royal costumes and stunning gems.
The glamorous era of Diana really began began at St. Paul’s Cathedral with a fairytale wedding and a spectacular ivory taffeta gown. St. Paul’s looks much prettier now than when the princess’ wedding took place, having undergone a comprehensive restoration to remove centuries of dirt, grime and soot. After five years of work, the tarps and scaffoldings are gone, revealing sparkling mosaics, gorgeous sculptures, clean stone and detailed wood carvings.
Visitors should plan to spend at least two hours seeing everything from the paintings at the top of the dome down to the crypt below, including a walk up the center aisle just as Diana did, while being surrounded by 3,500 guests inside and 600,000 well-wishers lining the surrounding streets. When the weather is fine, a climb to the Golden Gallery offers a rewarding view of London.
The Spaaaah
An aspect of the life of a princess that I find very appealing is being indulged with spa treatments. Princess Diana regularly scheduled what she called “Pamper Diana” days, which included a range of restorative pleasures such as aromatherapy, zone therapy (which stimulates pressure points in the hands and feet), acupuncture and deep tissue massage. While Diana did once vacation at a spa, she generally preferred to receive her services from individual therapists. So while visitors cannot check out her favorite pamper palaces, they can include an adventuresome spa treatment or simple massage during their trip to truly do things the Diana way.
Shop Like A Royal
Now ready to hit the shops? Start with London’s most famous shopping mecca – Harrods. A favorite of the princess, Harrods is more of a feast for the senses than a traditional department store. Diana was said to have stopped in Harrods to purchase Erno Laszlo skin care items, La Perla lingerie, and stockings from Christian Dior and Le Bourget, among other items. I spent hours wandering the more than one million square feet of selling space and was particularly captivated by the abundant displays in the jewelry department, perfume shop and food hall.
Not far from Harrods is Harvey Nichols, which was another of Diana’s favorite department stores, carrying everything from designer fashions to housewares. I stopped at the perfume counter to sample the Annick Goutal Passion perfume that Diana routinely wore. Its rose scent seemed to suit the woman who was called “England’s Rose.”
A world-class shopper, Diana had many other favorite retailers in the London area. To shop like a princess travelers should stop at Janet Reger on Brompton Road for fancy lingerie and Butler & Wilson on Fulham Road for the costume jewelry that Diana delighted in passing off as the real thing.
Upper Crust
Diana once said Ménage a Trois in Knightsbridge was her favorite restaurant. It served only appetizers and desserts and was designed for women by restaurateur Anthony Worrall Thompson after he observed that the women he dated gravitated toward those sections of the menu. Although Ménage a Trois has closed, you can dine at San Lorenzo in Beauchamp Place, another of the princess’ favorite haunts. Her son William once surprised her by reserving a table for the two for them when he was still a boy.
Not wanting to miss out on some of London’s iconic dining hot spots, I had afternoon tea at Ladurée in Harrods, a tea salon, bakery and restaurant rolled into one. Don’t miss the renowned macaroons, which come in such flavors as lime ginger, raspberry lemon and rose petal.
A Personal Palace
For an unforgettable home base in London, the Draycott Hotel is a perfect choice. Steeped in Edwardian splendor, its beautifully appointed rooms would have made Princess Diana feel right at home. Just around the corner from London’s fashionable Sloane Square, the 35-room hotel was built from three grand brick townhouses which date back to the 1880s. The décor is gorgeous and sweet touches like complimentary tea and cookies each afternoon or champagne before dinner made me feel incredibly pampered.
So what did I learn from exploring London, on the trail of one of its most famous inhabitants? In many ways, it’s good to be the princess, surrounded by beautiful environments, wonderful food and gracious service. Yet on a daily basis Diana had to cope with constant surveillance, rules and restrictions and relentless paparazzi. As we’ve come to know, Diana’s life was not as happy as it initially seemed.
Perhaps Diana’s legacy is the knowledge that human beings are works in progress. Being vulnerable and flawed doesn’t bar one from touching others. In fact, sometimes it allows for a much greater impact. And while you’re at it, a little glamour never hurts.
Tributes
Althorp – Althorp is Princess Diana’s 500-year-old ancestral home 90 miles outside London. In addition to a 100-plus room mansion with historic paintings, rare furnishings, silverware and ceramics, Althorp showcases the life and work of the princess through audiovisual presentations and exhibits. Althorp also is the princess’ final resting place; she is buried on an island in the Round Oval Lake. Althorp is open during July and August. For more information visit www.althorpestate.com.
The Diana, Princess of Wales Memorial Walk – Established by the Royal Parks, this self-guided tour takes visitors on a seven-mile walk through Hyde Park, Green Park and St. James’ Park, past palaces and sites associated with the princess. Ninety rose-decorated aluminum plaques guide the route. A brochure called “A Walk for Diana” has the map and is available at London tourism offices.
The Diana, Princess of Wales Memorial Playground – The Royal Parks Playground in Kensington Gardens was redesigned in 2000 to celebrate Diana’s love of children. More information is available at www.royalparks.org.uk.
The Diana, Princess of Wales Memorial Fountain – In 2004 Queen Elizabeth opened a granite fountain in Hyde Park as a tribute to Diana. The design of the fountain mimics Diana’s life with unsettled water flowing from two directions until it meets in a calm pool. The fountain has become one of London’s most popular tourist attractions. For details visit www.royalparks.org.uk.
Barbara Wayman is the author of Living An Extraordinary Life: 9 Transformational Strategies to Live Your Best Life Now.